Midweek escape: a road trip through the Rideau Canal Waterways

Laurie Weir

When you want a break from big city buzz, the Rideau Canal Waterways region offers an easy shift in pace. Highways give way to quieter rural roads, lakes appear around gentle bends, and villages along the historic canal offer a glimpse of life outside the goalposts of busy city life.

Within a few hours of Toronto, the corridor stretching from the 1000 Islands through Rideau Lakes and north toward Kemptville blends river landscapes, historic lockstations and countryside communities that reward unhurried travel.

A relaxed midweek itinerary makes it possible to explore some of the region’s most memorable stops without the rush of weekend crowds.

Start along the St. Lawrence River

Coming east from Toronto, the first taste of the region often arrives along the St. Lawrence River.

Communities like Gananoque and Brockville serve as gateways to the 1000 Islands, where boat tours, waterfront parks and helicopter rides offer sweeping views across the famous 1000 Islands.

Did you know? There are actually 1,864 islands in the St. Lawrence River. The smallest inhabited island is “Just Room Enough Island” near Alexandria Bay, N.Y. About the size of a tennis court, the tiny island holds a single house, one tree and a narrow strip of beach.

The clear waters of the St. Lawrence are also known among divers for historic shipwrecks resting beneath the surface. Guided scuba excursions allow visitors to explore the remains of nineteenth-century vessels, making the area one of Ontario’s most distinctive freshwater diving destinations.

If you’re looking to add a little adrenaline to the itinerary, Treetop Trekking 1000 Islands offers a different way to experience the landscape. Located along the Thousand Islands Parkway near Mallorytown, the aerial adventure park features zip lines, suspended bridges and climbing courses that wind through the forest canopy. You can move through the treetops on guided aerial courses or try the longer zipline runs that glide above the woodland landscape near the St. Lawrence River. 

The Gananoque waterfront and nearby trails offer excellent walking and cycling routes with views across the islands. If you’re looking for evening entertainment, you can also try your luck at Shorelines Casino Thousand Islands.

Why not plan to stay overnight? You will find several welcoming options in town, including the historic Gananoque Inn overlooking the river, along with a number of charming bed and breakfasts like the Pangea House or Trinity House.

Explore the quiet wilderness of Charleston Lake

Heading north from the 1000 Islands Parkway at Lansdowne brings you into the quieter landscapes of Leeds and Grenville.

Charleston Lake Provincial Park offers rugged Canadian Shield scenery, hiking trails and panoramic views across forest and water. Paddlers can explore sheltered bays while hikers climb to scenic lookouts that reveal the scale of the landscape. Hit the 10-kilometre Blue Mountain Trail for breathtaking views of the expansive scenery.  

If you prefer to stay close to nature, the park’s campground provides a peaceful overnight option surrounded by forest.

Did you know? Charleston Lake sits on the Frontenac Arch, an ancient ridge of granite that links the Canadian Shield to the Adirondack Mountains.

Discover art and gardens near Lyndhurst

Continuing north toward Lyndhurst reveals one of the region’s more unexpected destinations.

No. 9 Gardens blends eco-art installations, sustainability workshops, and woodland trails across a 40-acre property. Visitors can wander forest paths, explore outdoor art installations or stay overnight in a yurt or prospector tent.

Nearby, Wendy’s Country Market is known for its selection of local produce and a small collection of farm animals that often includes playful goats, and Berry Homestead Farm, an off-grid farm where you can learn about elderberry production, meet the resident donkeys and even take part in guided donkey hikes through the countryside.

Together, these stops offer a glimpse of the agricultural landscape and creative energy that define this corner of the Rideau corridor.

Pause at Jones Falls and Hotel Kenney

One of the most historic stops along the Rideau Canal is Jones Falls, home to the landmark Hotel Kenney.

Built in the late 19th century to serve travellers arriving by steamboat, the hotel is near one of the canal’s most impressive engineering features — the massive stone arch dam that anchors the Jones Falls lockstation. Often described as the grand dame of the Rideau waterways, Hotel Kenney has welcomed visitors for generations.

You can pair the stop with a quick bite at Hotel Kenney Jr., the casual snackbar on site, or stay overnight at Hotel Kenney and take in the quiet rhythm of the canal.

The lockstation and walking trails offer an easy place to stretch your legs while watching boats move through one of the most scenic sections of the Rideau Canal.

Did you know? The Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, flows through many of the villages along this route. Stop at lockstations in places like Merrickville, Newboro and Jones Falls to watch the historic locks open and close by hand, just as they have since the 1800s.

Follow the lakes through Rideau Lakes country

From Jones Falls, quiet country roads wind through the lakes and villages that define Rideau Lakes country.

Communities like Portland and Newboro sit along the interconnected waterways that form part of the Rideau Canal system. Kayaking or canoeing is one of the best ways to experience the landscape, where quiet bays and narrow channels reveal wildlife along the shoreline.

The Newboro House Bed and Breakfast is a great option for overnight. It’s a restored 19th-century brick home that offers a cozy base for exploring the nearby lakes, Rideau Canal lockstations and quiet village streets.

A stop at Forfar Dairy (also known as the Sunflower Bakery), just off the beaten path to Portland, reveals a local favourite known for its ice cream, cheese, delectable desserts and a giant Holstein parked out front.

Wander Merrickville’s canal village

Before heading north, the village of Merrickville offers one of the most charming stops along the canal.

Often described as one of the prettiest villages on the Rideau Canal, Merrickville features stone buildings, independent shops and cafés clustered around the historic lockstation.

Visitors often stop at Mrs. McGarrigle’s Fine Food for handcrafted mustards and dozens of other goodies, or grab coffee at Yellow Canoe Café before wandering the village streets where you will find unique shops and eateries to satiate every palate. 

Just outside town, Rideau Woodland Ramble offers a peaceful detour through display gardens and woodland trails filled with rhododendrons and Japanese maples.

If you want to stay overnight in Merrickville, you will find several charming options within walking distance of the Rideau Canal. The historic Baldachin Inn, a landmark building overlooking the locks, offers heritage accommodations in the heart of the village. Just steps away, the beautifully restored 1840 Guest House provides elegant suites in a former schoolhouse setting. Visitors looking for a more private stay can also book Merrickville Guest Suites, located along the village’s main street and close to shops, cafés and the canal pathway.

Finish the journey in Kemptville

A short drive north brings you to Kemptville, a growing small town that has quietly become a hub for food and craft beverages.

Stops here might include Grahame’s Bakery, a long-running local favourite known for its breads and pastries, or Kemptville Brewing Company, where visitors can sample small-batch beers in a relaxed setting.

Nearby rural stops such as Saunders Country Critters and Lavender Mills Farm feature friendly farm animals, seasonal lavender and countryside views that reflect the agricultural roots of the region.

For those looking to extend their stay, Limerick Forest Retreat offers a peaceful forest escape just outside town, with glamping accommodations tucked among the trees and easy access to hiking and cycling trails through the surrounding woodland. Visitors seeking a more traditional stay can also book a room at Abbott Road Bed and Breakfast, a quiet countryside retreat just outside Kemptville that offers comfortable suites and easy access to the town’s shops, breweries and walking trails.

The beauty of travelling midweek

While summer weekends can bring cottage traffic, midweek the Rideau Canal Waterways region settles into its natural rhythm.

Country roads open up, lockstations feel quieter and small towns reveal the slower pace that defines rural eastern Ontario.

If you’re looking to escape the city without complicated planning, the Rideau corridor offers something simple: scenic roads, historic villages and landscapes that invite visitors to linger a little longer.

Learn more about 1000 Islands Rideau Canal Waterways here and plan your visit!

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